Back from Japan
Wednesday, February 28th, 2007
Back from Japan! In a some words… Amazing, Awesome, Great and Magnificent!
What an expereince, it felt like two mini holidays, two weeks in Tokyo, then two weeks at the snows then back in Tokyo for 4 days. We took about 7000 photos, less than I thought we would because it snowed most of the time in Furano and Niseko! I didn’t want to get the camera wet. Will post a gallery of some of the photos soon, when its less hectic with everything going on right now.
This was my observation of Tokyo that I’m sure everyone notices when they have been there. People leave their bicycles on the street unlocked, the level of trust there is very high, on many occasions I was tempted to take one and ride around. Smoking in restaurants/bars is still allowed, cough, cough, but smoking in the street while walking is not. The train system is great, almost perfect, trains come every 3 to 5 minutes they are clean and fast, but the downer is that ads occupy all the head space on trains and apparently, every train stations has in own unique music/tone that plays when a train arrives, I heard the astroboy theme at one of the main JR stations. Vending machines are everywhere and they only sell beverages, warm tea, cold drinks and hot corn soup in a can. I didn’t see one snack machine. When you buy something, anything, you will get a receipt for it! Instead of useless pamphlets handed to you on the street, they package it into a small tissue pack for you. Its handy if you’ve got a runny nose and have no tissues on you. The friendly people. Last but there’s more, I’m sure, The food is great, fresh and yummy and cheap, thanks to the good exchange rates right now.
I didn’t keep a comprehensive diary, but made small notes in my itinerary of the trip. Going to write them here for memory’s sake in condensed form so hopefully details will float back into my head as I type.
DAY 1 Depart Sydney for Tokyo, stopping over in Singapore. DAY 2 Checked into hotel in Megome and konked out from tiredness for the whole day. DAY 3 Met up with Haline’s cousin Raymond in Shibuya for Lunch, saw the famous Shibuya intersection crossing and its smaller than I thought it would be in real life, still, its an amazing sight to see all those people crossing at the same time. The best view is from the first floor of the nearby Starbucks. We met up with Haline’s friends, Kat and Mark in Shinjuku for dinner. We didn’t explore Shinjuku much at that night. DAY 4 Took the train out to Mitaka to goto the Studio Ghibli Museum. A weird thing about going there is that you have to buy admission tickets from a Lawson convience store. We missed the Museum bus at Mitaka, so we decide to walk the 15 minutes there. We ended up getting a bit lost in Mitaka but it was okay because we eventually found the Museum. The Museum itself is a wonderous place, filled with many many cute and inspiring things, its a must if you love the Ghibli films. DAY 5 Spent today exploring Ueno, visiting the sites around Ueno Park DAY 6 Visited Ikebukuro today, we went to Sunshine City, which is a tall building in Ikebukuo that has lots of shops in it. There is an observatory at the top with 360 views of Tokyo which we also went to. Not getting enough of spectacular views, we met up with Raymond for dinner in Roppongi Hills, he took us to probably the best Chinese restaurant in Tokyo, Chinese Cafe 8, for decoration on the walls, they have boobs and other sexual body parts made of plaster stuck on all the walls. I think the place was an old sex shop coverted into a restuarant or the owner must have a thing for sexual worshipping. The fresh dumplings there were the best. Anyway, we went up to the observation deck of the Mori Tower Tokyo City View and Tokyo at night is just brilliant. DAY 7 We woke up really late today but of of Raymond’s suggestion, we decide to goto Kawaguchiko to see Mt Fuji. We ended up catching a Highway Bus at Shinjuku station at 4pm. The bus ride took 1 and a half hours to get there, which wasn’t what we wanted because the closer we got the darker it was getting. I was hoping to get some shot of Mt Fuji with the sun set in the background, but all I got were some blurry shots through the bus window as the sun went into hiding. We got off the bus at Kawaguchiko and immediately hopped on a train back into Tokyo. Next we’ll go earlier, they have a big theme park there with this crazy looking roller coaster. DAY 8 We went back to Ueno to visit the Tokyo National Museum, the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum and the National Museum of Western Art, Tokyo, We stumbled onto a bigger than life size replica of Rodin’s The Thinker at the last place. Visited the massive Ameyoko markets just wondering the shop lined alleyways. We had Indian for dinner in Shibuya, it was suprisingly good, the nan bread was massive. DAY 9 Laundry day, we went for a wonder around Megome and found a fairly busy street with lots of little shops and a coin laundry. Back to Shibuya for dinner, we had hotpot with Raymond and some of his freinds, Minori, Sunnai and Shinobu. DAY 10 Its Sunday, we went to Harajuku to check out the “wild and crazy” dress up girls. It was a bit disappointing because it was as wild and there weren’t that many, maybe because its winter. There is a Snoopy Town store right across from the train station. Takeshita Street markets was really cool, lots of people and shop stalls. Met up with Raymond for lunch and visited the very cool Yoshitomo Nara + graf A to Z cafe. Its so nice a quaint in there, very homely with white painted exposed boards and pictures hanging on the walls, I want to set up a studio just like its interiors. Walked to Shibuya from the A to Z cafe, its about 20 minutes. Went to Akihabara during the night, I wasn’t looking for any electronic stuff so there was nothing of real interest there, all the flashing lights and visual eye candy was great though. DAY 11 Went to Ebisu to visit the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photogrphy, but it is closed on Mondays. Went to Roppongi and walked around all night taking photos. DAY 12 Went back to Ebisu for the Museum of Photography, There was an exhibition on titled, Meditations on Gaea: New Horizons in Nature Photography, it featured 3 main photographers, one photographed landscape and moutains, one photographed wild animals in nature and the last photographed landscape and the natural plant life. The exhibition was so beautiful it kind of inspired me to go out and do some nature photography, I bought the catalogue so I could see all these imagery from the show again. Back to Roppongi Hills Mori tower to check out the Mori Arts Centre Gallery, we missed it last time because it was closed. We really wanted to see the animal totems exhibition by Gregory Colbert. Watch his tedtalks video if you want to see some amazing video footage. The exhibition wasn’t held in its regular paper container museum, but the scale and beauty of the images and movies were still so captivating. Went to Ginza, stumbled onto a Nikon second hand camera store, visited the Apple Store. Back to Shibuya, decide to back track and walk back to the A to A Cafe for dinner from Shibuya, then after dinner, walked from A to Z to Harajuku. DAY 13 Took a day trip out to Hakone to goto an Onsen. An Onsen experience is something to be tried and its not for anyone who is shy about being naked amongst other people. For me, being naked around naked grown strangers was okay, but among friends is another story. The onsen was very relaxing and hot. Got back late at night and decided to check out the main Tokyo JR station. DAY 14 Went to Asakusa to see the temple and markets, we got talked into taking a Rickshaw/Cyclo type pully bike thing tour. It was totally worth it, the guy pulling us spoke english and pointed out to us many places and info that we would’ve missed completely, like the bar/restaurant where Studio Ghibli based the scene in Spirited Away where the girls parents turn into pigs after eating the food, also, the place where we had noodles that morning was really bad… Went to Jimbocho to stock up on snow gear. Found this really nice Italian place in Shinjuku for dinner. DAY 15 Sent a bunch of postcards home. Dinner in Shinjuku with Raymond and Chris (girl) who is Raymonds cousin’s sister/friend from France. Chris is on holiday from studying in China for a month. Raymond took us to what I would call a concept diner, it is called The Lockdown, people eat in a sort of dungeon and are locked up in prison like cells with metal bars for doors. Special drinks are served in beekers and syringes. Halfway through the dinner, the lights goes out and these crazy people dressed up ad monsters run around scaring people. It was a bit weird and fun. DAY 16 Raymond took us to have sushi for lunch in Meguro, we meet up with Yoko too. This sushi train place was the best in Tokyo. Everything was fresh, so fresh that the shrimp on the sushi was still twitching. We all took a train out to Odaiba near Tokyo Bay. Our scenery from the train was really cool, we passed the Rainbow Bridge (looks like the Golden Gate Bridge), some spectacular highrise buildings and a massive ferris wheel. The shopping centre was cool too. We all met back on Roppongi Hills for dinner at Chinese Cafe 8 again, there was about 10 people all up and a good time was had by all filling up on dumplings and duck. We discovered a shrine hidden behind some curtains dedicated to the male sex organ. A friend of Raymond’s took us to the Vodka Ice Bar after dinner, we had to don these big silver coats to get in because of the cold inside. It was pretty cool. Everything was carved out of solid ice. To end the night, we all headed to a place called Gonpachi, this place looks like any regular building from the outside, but once inside it was amazing, the main hall was like a big atrium surrounded by balconys, I was told they based the scene in Kill Bill where Uma is killing all those Japanese mafia guys on this place. DAY 17 Met up with the other guys who are going boarding with us, Dennis B, Dennis Y, Leng, Jason, Lisa and Kheang. DAY 18 Checked out of our Hotel in Megome, made our way to Haneda airport for a domestic flight to Asahikawa, then a bus to Furano.
DAY 19 Our first day of boarding, there was nothing but powder, powder and more powder. Soft caster sugar stuff. The resort is 5 minutes walk from where we are staying. at the end of the day, we can actually ride our board on the side walk home. DAY 20 Lost the guys today so I spent the day boarding by myself. Boarded the other side of the Furano mountain which had a 30 person gondola. There’s an ice bar here in Furano that is man made from all the snow and ice, everyone went there for a drink after boarding today and The Great Ouutdoors were there doing a story, so I think they are all going to be in it, the episode will be shown in August, our winter, let hope they didn’t get cut out. The highlight of today was going to a welcome party put on by the Furano Tourism Committee. It was massive, we got feed and then entertained with Geisha acting/dancing and Taiko Drums. I was invited to challenge one of the drummers, it was a lot of fun, I kept up with the beat fairly well. I then supprised the drummer with my own challenge of some Chinese Lion Dancing drumming. DAY 21 We all stayed together today, Haline is getting better, going faster and straighter. Its been snowing for the past 3 days since we’ve been here, there’s so much powder, a bit too much sometimes. Going through the trees in hip deep powder really tops anything I’ve boarded in before. I don’t think I’ll be going to Perisher or Thredbo in the near future, unless it dumps down 2 metres of snow, its just not worth it boarding on icey muddy snow. We got invited to a Furano Natural Studio Theatre Company show tonight. The show was about how a group of Japanese drama students set up the Furano Drama Studio a few decade ago in Furano. The show itself by unbelievably good, the lighting, acting, singing, minimal set design was top notch. Furano turned out to be a discovery, its still small, quaint and idealic. They grow lavender here in the summer and looking at the tourist info, it looks like a beautiful place. We all fell in love with Furano and will probably spend more time there next time. DAY 22 Took a bus to Sapporo for another bus to Niseko. We had dinner in Niseko at a traditional Japanese place for Lisa’s birthday DAY 23 On advice from a guy working at where we are staying, we took a day trip out to Sapporo today to see the Toyota Big Air and the 58th Sapporo Snow Festival. It was deliriously freezing. The Big Air was cool, seeing dudes doing 720’s spins off a massive ramp was whoa! We couldn’t stay long to catch the finals cos of time and only spent 30 minutes at the Snow Festival. There were some spectacular ice sculptures, most had started to melt due to the warmer than usual winter Japan is experiencing. DAY 24 It snowed all night last night so the condition was great to board on. We boarded the Hirafu side of the mountain. The runs aren’t as long as Furano. DAY 25 Went over to the Hanazono side of the mountain which had longer runs, tried out the half pipe and terrain park. Haline is beginning to link now. DAY 26 Only Dennis B, Jason, Haline and I boarded today, the others were either half injured or sick and tired. We went up the peak of Hirafu during the day. Getting up there was tough, we had to get the last lift up the the highest lift point. From there we had to trek on foot for about 500m, the first 300m being almost 60 degree inclined and the last 200m being buffeted by high winds and snow. On top of that, do it while carrying two snowboards. The pain and breathlessness was totally worth it in the end because we got to board down a clear face of the mountain in soft thigh deep powder. DAY 27 We went over to the Anapuri side of the mountain today, the conditions weren’t so good today, high winds and no visibility. DAY 28 Boarded the Anupuri side again today with two new friends who are staying at the same place we are, Michelle and Dax, Dax is a semi pro who’s been boarding for over 10 years. he took us to this gully which everyone calls the “Bowl”, its basically a 2km gully that resembles a natural halfpipe and at the beginning of it, there is a big drop in point that looks like a big bowl. Its a lot of fun to ride. We stayed around that area all day, cutting through powder covered tree runs. We all decide to goto the local Anupuri Onsen after boarding. DAY 29 Massive dump overnight. Stayed on the Hanazono side today doing tree runs, jumping off big ledges and kickers. DAY 30 7th day boarding straight, my body is feeling a bit tight. Spent the first half day over Anupuri, visibility is a bit better today, so we trekked up to the Anupuri peak and boarded over to the top of the Bowl where its wide open powder runs then it drops into the gully Bowl. Spent the last afternoon over at Hirafu getting as many runs in before we had to go. I’ve improved a lot with this trip, doing more crazy stuff and going faster. The snow here is unbelievable, they say is a bad season, but compared to Australia, its an awesome season, I can’t wait to go back when its a good season. Haline can board now, linking turns slowly. We had dinner with Dax and Michelle in Kutchan for the last night.
DAY 31 Bus to Sapporo Chitose airport for Haneda airport. Checked into a Ryokan for our last 4 days in Tokyo. DAY 32 Shopping! in Harajuku, Shinjuku and Shibuya. Met up with the others for dinner at Otoya, its a really nice and cheap Japanese restaurant, its a chain so I think there’s one in every major suburb of Tokyo. DAY 33 Bought another big suitcase today to pack all the extra stuff we’ve accumulated. Took others back to the Kill Bill Place for dinner. Its not really a dinner kinda place, more for drinking, because the servings are all appetite sized. DAY 34 Took they guys to Meguro for the best sushi. Went back to Shibuya for the last time to wonder around. Walked down this cool backstreet where all the trendy shops are located away from the main shopping street. Back to Shinjuku and ended up in Harajuku wondering Takeshita Street in the middle of the night. DAY 35 Trying to get to the airport in peak hour trainfic is a nightmare, luckily we sent our two big suitcases and snowboard bag to Narita via a luggage shipping thing they have here in Tokyo. You have to drop it at a convenience store. Boarded our flight at Narita about 40kg over our luggage weight allowance, lucky the plane wasn’t full and they allowed thihs with no charge. Stopover in Changi then back in Sydney.
2 1/2 weeks in Tokyo was enough to get a taste of things, its a good amount of time to get your bearings and know how everything works. I would definitely go back there, so much to see and do especially the day trips out to Kyoto, Osaka and Mt Fuji.
Happy Snaps. 514 from the D80 camera and 60 from the Cybershot T1.
Back to work for now.
Kyo Skette!